The National Road - The Fall - Rise- and 2nd Fall?

The Decline of the National Road
The opening of the B.O. Railroad in Wheeling occurred on January 11, 1853. People of all ages came to Wheeling by steamboat, stagecoach, and foot to witness the train’s arrival, quite an historic event to observe. Spectators were forced to wait on the train’s arrival because of a minor accident. An axle-tree had broken and needed to be repaired, there were no injuries. The delay did not dampen spirits in Wheeling for the town was festively decorated and the famous Suspension Bridge across the Ohio River was lit with over a thousand lights. Finally, at 8:30 P.M. the first locomotive rolled into Wheeling carrying fifty passengers, most from Baltimore. While the city of Wheeling was celebrating this new and exciting technology of steam travel; stagecoach drivers, wagoners, and tavern owners were in complete dismay.

“We hear no more of the clanging hoof,

And the stage coach rattling by;

For the steam king rules the traveled world,

and the old pike’s left to die.”

These lines represent the feelings of many who made a living off of the National Road. Soon after the railroad came to Wheeling there was a rapid drop in traffic along the National Road. Stagecoaches and wagoners became non-existent. There was simply no need for them because travelling and shipping through the railroad was cheaper and of course much quicker. Taverns along primarily railroad stops still remained popular but the old Taverns connected with stagecoach lines quickly went out of business. Traffic along the National Road would not advance again until the age of the automobile and car touring.

The National Road Rises Again

Albert, Lucia, and Betsy on the National Road

On August 5, 1909 the extra session of the 61^st. Congress adjourned and most congressmen had bought railroad tickets to make the journey back home. Albert Douglas and his wife had originally planned to do the same until Douglas suggested to his wife Lucia that instead of shipping their Model-T Ford home they should ride home in it across the National Road. Both thought it was a splendid idea, hired a driver, and were soon on their way. After a few hours of travel they stopped at a roadhouse called “The Eagle”. Throughout their travel log they refer to their Model-T as “Betsy” and comment on its “good humor” as the motor car chugged happily along the “hilly” and “rough” National Road.
For the night they lodged at Hancock, Maryland. According to Douglas, “The less said about the Maryland-Inn at Hancock, the better and we were sorry not to leave bedtimes in the morning.” Although their visit at this particular inn appeared to be dissatisfactory, Betsy received a “satisfactory breakfast of oil and gasoline” and again they were on their way. Occasionally Douglas and his wife walked ahead of Betsy along the road to gather blackberries, pick flowers, and drink from a roadside spring that were at one time used by the wagoners to water their horses. Throughout their travel they take advantage of roadside attractions such as “Big Crossings”, a massive stone bridge constructed in 1818 and Washington and Jefferson College located in Washington P.A. Here they phoned ahead to the next town, Claysville (named after Henry Clay) to have lunch ready in an hour. Sadly, they took a wrong turn between Washington and Claysville and spent an extra hour trying to get back on the National Road. There was hardly any mention of driving through Wheeling and eventually they made it safely to their destination of Chillocothe, Ohio by way of the Zanesville and Maysville turnpike.
Douglas’s vivid description of the National Road provided insight to what early car touring was like and is the beginning of its rebirth. Some of the annoyances described by Douglas such as bumps and loose pavement would soon be improved as the National Road became plentiful with horseless carriages. Douglas speaks of the roads possible future:
Our children may see its glories revive, its way repaved, with modern metal, its broken and defaced old mile-post repaired or replaced, its toll houses rebuilt or re-occupied, its iron gates once more threatening the “joy-rider,” [but] its sides lined with colossal advertising signs, darkening the view, and its old taverns renovated, rebuilt, and re- established – but with “soft drinks” perhaps subsisted for the “fifteen-cent-a-gallon” [whiskey] of other days. Douglas was correct with his predictions of the National Road’s future. With the mass production of automobiles the National Road was revitalized and used once again during the early nineteenth century. All along its route hotels, diners, gas stations, and truck stops sprung up. Once again the National Road was playing an important economic roll in westward expansion, tourism, and commerce.

Although some of the original taverns were torn down or abandoned after the coming of the railroad, inns such as the Stone House in Triadelphia remained open. Just behind the Stone House opened a hotel where travelers could pull in a garage, and their room was located above the garage showing the bond tourists were having with their automobiles. Throughout the early and mid 21^st. century the National Road enjoyed a rebirth that would soon end because a much quicker form of transportation was being developed.

I think this is the cutest set up ever. Sadly the construction didn’t appear to be that great and upkeep was little. Today as you can see it’s just used to store junk, but I still think it’s charming.

The 2nd Fall?

This time it would be the interstate highway system. The plan for a massive highway expansion program began when Dwight D Eisenhower signed the Federal Aid Highway Act in 1956. By the late 1970’s the National Road found itself in another state of decline. Just as the taverns found themselves in trouble after the railroads arrived, Interstate 70 left the National Road in the current state of decline it has been suffering for the last twenty five years. Certain exceptions remain, for example the Elm Grove section remains active and a few miles ahead one will find a miniature suburb of Wheeling. Elm Grove and Wheeling aren’t the only exception, but the one’s I happen to be most knowledgeable about.
As Orvar Löfgren suggest in his book On Holiday: A History of Vacationing the history of tourism is dependent on mobility. More importantly the creation of new methods in transportation develop new tourist demands such as taverns, restaurants, gas stations, and many other accommodations. Any type of new technology will ultimately mean the fall of something else. Wagoners could not compete with the railroad just as the National Road could not compete with Interstate 70. As we have seen throughout the history of tourism, spurts of revitalization have occurred. The National Road is a prime example of this with its stages of prosperity and decline which has been present in other regions and parts of the world as well. With the current trends in tourism, the main ingredient is speed. The thought of stopping, or walking along side of a country road as Mr. Douglas and his wife Lucida did in 1909 would seem foolish in today’s world of constant acceleration.

“Celebration of the Opening of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad,” Wheeling Intelligencer, 12 January, 1853.
Hulbert, Archer Butler. “The Old National Road.” (Columbus : F. J. Heer, 1901).
Ireley, Merritt. “Traveling the National Road” (The Overlook Press 1990).
Searight, Thomas B. “The Old Pike: A History of the National Road.” (Heritage Books INC. 1990)

Traveling the National Road - Taverns and Wagon Stands

For more on the National Road, check out this blog: 125 M to B: The National Pike and National Road

Well enough about Guns N’ Roses. Oddly enough, though, while in the campus bookstore I heard Sweet Child O’ Mine playing, and then not an hour later while walking along University Avenue a girl drove by blaring the same song from her car speakers. And on a brisk January day might I add. Weird. If I knew where to buy a lottery ticket, I would have! Anyway, lets get back on topic with the National Road. The topic is taverns and what it was like to travel along one of America’s first major highways. Also, keep in mind traveling today. What has replaced the tavern, better yet, what has replaced the National Road? Before we start that, lets look at this little tid bit of information about my hometown of Triadelphia, WV.

A tavern would be found about every twelve miles along the National Road and a wagon stand approximately every mile. The difference between a tavern and wagon stand is substantial and the characteristics between the two must be discussed. A tavern would be a place for travelers to lodge after a day of probably traveling by stagecoach along the road. Some taverns catered to specific stagecoach lines. At a tavern guest would be given a meal, grain and water for their animals, and a place to sleep.
The most successful wagon house is similar to the modern day truck stop and could be found outside of large towns such as Wheeling, WV. The wagon house was designed to accommodate the rough men who were responsible for shipping merchandise. It was not uncommon to find a hundred horses being fed at a single wagon yard.
One similarity shared between taverns and wagons stands was the fireplace. Some of the fireplaces were up to seven feet long and able to hold up to a wagonload of wood. The bigger the fireplace the merrier the stay would be, the opinion of many travelers along the road. Along with the fireplace came the poker. The poker was used to stir the fire. “The Keeper-of-the-Poker” was the tavern owner and they took pride in controlling the massive fire that was supposed to portray his or her hospitality. “Boss” Rush, owner of a tavern near Smithsfield even kept his poker under lock and key.
With a jolly atmosphere such as this it was not uncommon for the locals to participate in the festivities. Sleighing parties would often visit the taverns along the National Road. Mrs. Gooding’s tavern (owned by Moses and Lydia Shepherd) was a stone structure that was well known for its cordial entertainment from travelers and locals alike. Sleighing parties from Wheeling would visit the tavern to sing, dance, listen to fiddle players, and tell stories.
The naming of taverns varied greatly. Some were named after the proprietor and never changed, even after a change in ownership. Some names revealed the nostalgic of old England such as the Black Horse or the White Swan. In later years tavern names reflected the importance of well known American leaders. Names that involved the usage of the word “liberty” were common. Most taverns were operated by men but there were a few also run by woman, mostly widows, and for them tavern keeping provided a sufficient income.
The average tavern was two story dwelling. The first floor was used for dinning, reading, parlor rooms, and depending on its location some served as a stagecoach office. Taverns were always well stocked with whiskey. Tavern keepers did not seek profit from their whiskey sales but simply saw it as a way to provide their guest with accommodation. The meals one would receive while staying at a tavern included hot biscuits, venison cutlets, ham and eggs, roast chicken, johnnycakes, and waffles. Wild game was also a specialty which included quail, pheasant, goose, rabbit, squirrel, wild turkey, salted bear meat, fresh fish from nearby streams, and some eastern taverns always had a fresh supply of oysters on hand. Before departure in the morning one could expect a hearty breakfast served with sausage, buckwheat cakes, ham and eggs, and maple syrup.
A tavern kept by John Bentley and later James Kimberly located east of Triadelphia, West Virginia was another establishment enjoyed by both locals and travelers of the road. Thomas B. Searight, stagecoach driver and longtime observer of the road referred to this tavern as “a favorite resort of the young rural residents, male and female, of that portion of old Virginia and here they were accustomed to go for a nights festivity, always confining themselves within the bounds of propriety, but within those bounds enjoying themselves in a high degree.” Although only a vague description and location of this tavern exist it is important to understand how these taverns influenced not only the travelers of the road but local residents as well.
Roney’s Point was the site of another famous tavern which is still standing today, the Stone House which was run by numerous proprietors. This tavern would become well known and visited because of its association with the stagecoach lines such as the Simms line and Good Intent line.

A Stone House at Roney’s Point in Triadelphia, WV. That white thing to the right is a new addition, the coke machine is not original, a new roof, but for the most part the look hasn’t changed. There are signs that parts of the stone are starting crumble. It’s not as inviting as it was in the past, but still a fine piece of National Road heritage. Today the building is used by a contractor, but what they really use it for, I’m not sure.

Descriptions of stagecoach travel can easily be described as treacherous, and after a long day of travel, inns such as the Stone House could be very inviting and comforting. If it wasn’t, that tavern owner would soon be out of business.
Some stagecoach lines would run different campaigns to persuade prospective travelers to use their line. Gen. N.P. Talmadge, an avid speaker in favor of temperance made speeches along the National Road and required his drivers to take a pledge to refrain from drinking alcohol. At a stop at Cambridge, Ohio Talmadge gathered with his drivers at a Presbyterian church and sang a song to demonstrate his commitment to attentive and courteous drivers.

Our horses are true and coaches fine,

No upsets or runaways;

Nor drunken drivers to swear and curse,

For its cold water all the days.

As one can see by the above passage putting your life in the hand of a stagecoach driver was not always the safest, it depended heavily on their employer and their own personal morals.

Matildas Houstoun’s Journey

Matildas Houstoun’s journey from Cumberland to Brownsville was recorded in November of 1847. Houstoun’s recollection of the road is quite unique because she was from England visiting the United States. Her reason for traveling along the National Road is unknown, but her perspective tells us a lot about the culture that could be found in America compared to England.
Houstoun and her party hired a private stagecoach driver which in England was called a “exclusive extra”. This particular coach held nine passengers and was brightly painted with the scene of a painted Indian on its doors. The stagecoach was made of the lightest material possible and had large leather springs that would help absorb holes and ruts that would be crossed by the wheels of the stagecoach on the road. In England during this time if Houstoun planned to travel this type of distance she would have taken the railroad which is probably what inclined her to write the following:
“The public stage is the usual mode of conveyance, for the Americans who are too little susceptible of petty annoyances, and not sufficiently alive to the delicacies of life, to find a carriage crowded with the promiscuous company at all disagreeable, or to be willing to pay their dollars for empty places.”
Although the stagecoach appeared comfortable while motionless, it was quite a chore to stay relaxed once travel began. Houstoun describes the journey as treacherous and not for a second can one not concentrate on holding on for their life. Because Houstoun and her party were traveling with a private stagecoach driver their journey was somewhat more conformable than travel with a stagecoach line which Houstoun was thankful for. Accidents were common because of the landscape which they traveled. All along the road were deep ravines, no protection from these ravines, and stagecoache roll rovers were quite common.
After a full day of travel the driver stopped at an inn which was owned by “a stout, burly mountaineer” who was not used to regular patrons visiting but greeted Houstoun and the rest of her party with a very warm welcome. Although the inn did not have the fire ready or any other accommodations made the owner quickly started fixing the fire which was most welcome after their long journey on the road. Soon after that, they were served a meal that included lumps of salted bear’s meat (cold), hot venison steak, and later some mountain honey which all appeared to please the travelers. The owner of the tavern is described as treating all of the guests with great hospitality. For example serving their food and making himself “agreeable to the best of his ways and means.”
Her characterization of the mountaineer provides some background about the people who live along the National Road. Although he was a rugged man, to her not the most civilized creature, he was still quite educated and maintained a steady conversation with his patrons. Some of their talk included Oregon, California, sporting, taxation, and the chances of war. Houstoun’s evening at the inn was far from boring and she could not help but think “how differently a man, belonging to the same class in England, would in all probability have behaved if placed in similar situations.” As Houstoun explains, traveling on the road could be unpredictable and dangerous, and taverns provided travelers with hospitable lodging. Travels such as this would soon become a thing of the past along the National Road because of the rapid expansion of the B.O. Railroad westward.

Merritt Ireley, Traveling the National Road (The Overlook Press 1990)

Archer Butler Hulbert, The Old National Road (Columbus : F. J. Heer, 1901).

The Old National Road and Early Politics

The National Road has played an important part in the development of the United States. For one hundred and ninety-five years the road has been building a nation while introducing tourists from all over the world to the sublime of America. The National Road has gone through various stages such as conception, westward expansion, competition from railroads, automobile rebirth, and again competition from faster interstate highways. In 1806 a group of prominent statesman set out to influence congress about the need for better roads. Statesmen such as Henry Clay observed this importance through his travels from Kentucky to Washington D.C. while serving in the House of Representatives and later in the Senate. Other leading citizens such as Moses and Lydia Shepherd who resided just a few miles outside of Wheeling, WV recognized the importance of a major road. Although everyone had different motivations for building the road, almost everyone was in favor of having better transportation to Washington D.C. whether it was for political reasons, to shop, visit the theatre, or to mingle among other distinguished citizens and businessmen. During the early nineteenth century it was believed that the federal government should stay out of building roads, but men such as George Washington, who knew the Appalachian region well, and Thomas Jefferson considered the mercantile aspects that a road could bring. If the United States were to expand, efficient transportation would be needed. After much deliberation Jefferson authorized the building of the road on March 29, 1806. Actual construction of the road began in 1811 the road and reached Wheeling on August 1, 1818. Throughout the construction of the road there were numerous debates about where the route should be placed. For example, Pittsburgh lobbied for the road to run through the city. One of the most controversial decisions regarding the building of the road and was the route National Road follows through the section of Elm Grove, just outside of Wheeling, WV. Moses and Lydia Shepherd had constructed a stone mansion there in 1789. On this property they managed a large plantation, owned a mill, and general store. Over all, the Shepherd’s were considered to be very influential because of their substantial wealth and for the mansion they had constructed which was by far the most extravagant house in the tri-state area. Senator Henry Clay was a frequent guest and friend of the Shepherds. The Shepherd’s wealth and power also landed Moses the job of building many of the bridges that were needed to maneuver around the numerous creeks and streams that crisscross the region. Many of the men working on the construction of the road were Irish immigrants and people that lived along the road. This was long before the age of eminent domain and many of the farmers that resided along the chosen route for the road were delighted to see it travel through their farms. The road was away to bring prosperity. It also meant they could be employed by contractors such as Moses by clearing land, cutting and hauling stone, or building bridges. Economically the road was beneficial because it provided farmers with more income and the surrounding communities with vital links to larger cities. While passing through Elm Grove the road was originally designed to run north of Big Wheeling Creek. Although this section of land did not have the best bed for a road it was the cheapest and the construction of only one bridge was needed. Because the Shepherd’s were in control of building this section of road, Lydia convinced her husband to alter the road so it would run directly in front of their house, make a sharp right at their front gate, and then proceed to Wheeling. The Shepherd’s consulted their good friend Henry Clay about the matter and he had no objections because the Shepherd’s used the argument that the roadbed would be much better on the south side of Big Wheeling Creek. Although this is true the motivation behind the Shepherd’s altering the plan was clearly greed.

The road was supposed to go straight, instead it takes a sharp left onto this S Bridge built by Moses Shepherd.

This bridge was also built by Moses. While traveling west on National Road travelers made a sharp right to head towards Wheeling, and when they looked left they saw the Shepherds mansion, just as they had planned. Today it’s still the same. This bridge is still used today; except they have surfaced concrete over much of the stone work.

This greed was noticeable when looking at what they did to the Feay family. The Feay’s, cousins of Moses, had built a stone tavern somewhere north of Peters Run Road, where the road was originally supposed to be routed. When many people along the designated route heard the National Road was coming, some made investments in building taverns because they knew of the income it could bring. When Moses and Lydia considered the hardships this would cause the Feay’s they still routed the road away from their tavern. To counter Feay’s tavern the Shepherd’s built one of their own which was run by Mrs. Gooding. Apparently Moses did feel guilty about what he had done because he hired many of the Feay’s as workers on the bridges, but this did not stop the rumors that were spread throughout Wheeling about what the Shepherd’s had done. When the road was finally completed the government owed Moses approximately one hundred and fifty thousand dollars for his construction for that section of road. Sixty thousand dollars was extra cost that was needed for the two bridges where the road crossed the creek which the government refused to pay. This money was not heavily sought from Moses, he saw what he had done as immoral, and therefore he did not mind paying for these expenses himself. Lydia did not feel this way and always tried to persuade government officials to re-open the payment she claimed they rightfully deserved. The litigious allegations towards the Shepherd’s did not alter their influence in Washington but left many of the residents in Wheeling suspicious of the Shepherd’s fraudulent moving of the road for their own prosperity.

A monument that was erected for Henry Clay. Sadly, years ago it crumbled and was torn down. It used to stand near the stone bridge near the Shepherds home. Of course Lydia was responsible for the monument. She was always trying to keep up appearances. Later on there will be a blog dedicated to the Shepherds.

The S Bridge

The tragedy in Minneapolis, Minnesota left me thinking about bridge construction and the developments that have been made in regards to building bridges. The nation’s first major highway, The National Road, or Cumberland Road (present day Route 40) happens to be routed through my hometown of Wheeling, West Virginia. To complete the road to Wheeling, numerous bridges where needed to cross the regions many meandering creeks and streams. Last year I found myself writing a paper for my History of Tourism class on the history of the National Road. In my paper I specifically talked about traveling the National Road and the importance of taverns. I’ll probably save that for another post, but today I would just like to talk about the most common type of bridge that you would have found along the National Road. It’s called the “S Bridge.” As you can see the name is derived from the bridges shape (Excuse my poor photography, last fall I didn’t I’d be sharing these). By 1818 the National Road had reached Wheeling and served as a major link to the east coast. The S Bridges are unique because most where not built by sophisticated engineers, they where built by the farmers who lived near the bridge. Of course there would have been one engineer in charge, but in most cases they where more like amateur engineers, always experimenting with new ideas, but good ones they were! The S Bridge was used because it was cheap to build. If you’ve ever traveled this area, there’s no such thing as a level spot, so the more advanced “hump bridge” was too expensive and too complicated to construct. These bridges where made of stone that would have been found from the near by rock quarries. Some of the S Bridges have been torn down, but many are preserved. One particular S Bridge that once stood near the edge of Triadelphia, West Virginia was in use until about 6-8 years ago when it was torn down. I remember it well because my school bus passed over it everyday and I could not bear to see it demolished! The pictured S Bridge has been preserved and is located just across the Pennsylvania border near the little hamlet of Taylorstown. Just think of the goods, the people, and the animals that crossed that bridge! The preservation of these bridges is wonderful because they serve as monuments to the Old National Road.
Getting back to one of the purposes of this blog, lesson planning, when a disaster such as the Minneapolis’s bridge collapse occurs, I think it should be talked about in class. I don’t care if it’s gym class. It’s about connecting students with current events, and it’s also about creating a classroom that cares about others. We usually don’t think about the problems of others until we have our own. That’s human nature I suppose, but my goal is to have a class where students care about each other, and others around the world who have fallen on hard times. So in my class room I would aside time to talk about the bridge, maybe mix in a little bridge history (the history of bridge construction is a class with in itself), and ask students what they think of the situation. And who knows, maybe that small lesson will motivate a student to pursue engineering.

3 post in 3 days! Dear readers, you’re being spoiled!
I have also added a link (in the link section too) that will take you to a map of West Virginia. This will help make sense of where Wheeling and Morgantown are located. The National Road is located near Interstate 70.
Map of West Virginia

Well, in my previous blog I couldn’t help myself, and I went into that mini lecture about the historic Wheeling Suspension Bridge. While driving back home for the weekend I thought it might make sense if I shared some more information about the bridge, and showed the world an example of something that I purchased at one of our auctions. What you see above is a print of a painting which is titled “Wheeling in Virginia” (for those of you who don’t know, West Virginia is a state, it’s not simply “Western Virginia”). While sorting through some junk one day I found this. It was originally a page out of a book, and for some unknown reason someone ripped it out. I found it while sorting through some papers. Instantly, I hoped that I would be able to buy it, but items such as this are not sold alone. We of course throw it in with a bunch of other similar “junk” and call it a “lot. ” Anyway, on the day of the auction I kept a close eye on this particular lot and I bought it. I went well over my budget, but when I bid, I’m a wild man. So once I got it home I purchased a frame and gave it a new home, basically I rescued it.
The print depicts what early Wheeling looked like. Sadly, I’m not sure when the original was painted, I’m guessing the 1850’s. During its heyday, Wheeling thrived off of the Ohio River and the commerce that it brought. During this time period, Wheeling was the gateway to the west, and before those settlers entered the then “wilderness” - they crossed the Wheeling Suspension Bridge. Even before the suspension bridge, the completion of the National Road through Wheeling in 1818 made it the transportation hub of the state. Later, Wheeling would become well know for its glass production, china, steel, and tobacco (i.e. cigar manufacturing, we’re too far north for growing). Today Wheeling is a dwindling town that is trying to find it’s identity. First the suburbs, then the interstates, then the exits, then the strips malls… patterns such as this have left the downtown district of Wheeling idle. Sadly, the manufacturing jobs are gone, skilled trades that are forgotten by most. So if you ever come across a piece of Warwick china at a yard sale, buy it, you’re buying a piece of Wheeling (plus it’s usually rather valuable.)

P.S. Aside from the amazing photo of Fred Sanford and his loving son Lamont, the others are RPS originals (me), so like, don’t steal them or anything. Be cold… ah.. I mean cool, be cool.